Tag Archives: Lake Okeechobee

Hit the road in Florida this summer

Summer should be special. The summer before I entered third grade, we were new Floridians and my mom found a job before my dad, so he had the task of watching me for the summer. Every day (or so it seems in my memories, but in reality I suspect he threw a job interview or two in there) my dad and I would get in the car and head out for parts unknown. I have fantastic memories of root beer at Dunedin’s Dogs ‘n’ Suds (RIP), Anna Maria Island before all the houses, and the wilderness of Pasco County (yeah, I might be showing my age here).

As grownups, it’s easy to lose the magic of summertime. My dad and I still take road trips on occasion — most recently Sanibel — but we could do it more. And so could you. This summer, let’s bring back the road trip. Earn your road trip badge this summer. You may need to use that stockpile of personal days for some, but like I said: Summer should be special. So grab your swimsuit and a cooler filled with beer, sandwiches and the odd apple, and hit the road.

THREE DAYS OR MORE

Swim with a sea lion in the Florida Keys. No, they aren’t native to the region. Theater of the Sea’s resident sea lion, Mimi, is a bit of a flirt (no matter how she begs, don’t kiss her — she has wicked fish breath). You can swim with dolphin anywhere (and really, dolphin are the assholes of the marine mammal kingdom, so don’t) but where else can you swim with an aging sea lion who wants to romance you? Florida, that’s where. theaterofthesea.com.

Eat oysters in Apalachicola. Florida oysters taste like salted orgasms, and nowhere are they more intense than Apalachicola. Head to Boss Oyster (sit on the water) or Up the Creek Raw Bar (order the somewhat-local Pensacola Porter) and suck ‘em down. Crackers? They’re for sissies. When you’re done, head to Apalachicola Chocolate Company for your reward: dark chocolate made with Tupelo honey. saltyflorida.com.

Pour one out for the homies at Islamorada’s 1935 Hurricane Memorial. The strongest hurricane to ever make landfall in the US  decimated the Keys, killing — among others — a trainload of WWI veterans working on the Overseas Railroad. A limestone monument — with cremains of many victims — stands at mile marker 81. While you’re there, stop at the Keys History and Discovery Center (MM88) and realize the Florida Keys offer more than Jimmy Buffett and the Duval Crawl. keysdiscovery.com.

View the state stem to stern on A1A. Forget what you think you know about this road (spring break, for starters): Start in Fernandina and end in South Beach and you’ll see every sort of Florida you might imagine, plus a few you can’t. Palm and pine fringed roads, a town that started as travel trailers, and some of the best surfing in Florida. scenica1a.org

Sun yourself on Grayton Beach State Park. Travel writers describe the sand along 30A as “sugar” but it’s too light and fluffy for that. Is Bisquick sand a thing? It is up here. Late summer sees fewer crowds, and if you plan ahead you can probably grab one of the well-appointed cabins at the park ($110/night, and they sleep six). floridastateparks.org.

WEEKEND TRIPS

Snorkel wrecks and reefs in West Palm Beach. The shallows off the coast tripped up many a pirate and aquatic pioneer, leaving behind a watery wealth of gold and treasure. The wrecks offshore evolved into Florida’s first artificial reefs where you’ll spy a bevy of sponges and corals, and the reef line off the coast shelters some majestic watery wildlife (including Florida’s largest sea turtle population). visitpalmbeach.com.

Fish on at Uncle Joe’s Fish Camp near Lake Okeechobee. Fish camps dish up a special type of Florida, figuratively and literally miles away from Disney and the beaches. Showers are optional; fishing and beer are not. Bring a passion for hawg fishing, because it’s all about the bass by the Big O. 863-528-0775.

Shoot the rapids at Big Shoals State Park. Yes, we have rapids. Here’s the thing: They disappear.  When the Suwannee River is between 59 and 61 feet above mean sea level, we get Class III rapids. Any other time, this White Springs adventure is a smooth paddle or a frustrating portage. To add to the fun, it’s a one-mile hike to put-in. floridastateparks.org.

DAY TRIPS

Paddle the Chassohowitzka. See it through photographer Benjamin Dimmitt’s eyes (read Caitlin Albritton’s review), then head to this spring-fed river that affords breathtaking vistas, although saltwater intrusion threatene life around the river. Paddle it before Swiftmud’s irresponsible permitting practices ruin it for all of us. paddleflorida.net.

Rejoice in one town’s ability to take failure on the chin and reinvent itself in Cedar Key. Henry Plant put his railroad in Tampa, not Cedar Key, rendering theirs obsolete. That killed the shipping, which killed the pencil industry. Tongers and spongers overfished and killed that economy. Cedar Key rose to the challenge by learning to grow clams. Eat ‘em raw, steamed, or grilled. Think of them as the taste of Florida. visitcedarkey.com.

Have a road trip you want to share? Email me. This article appeared in Creative Loafing’s 2016 Summer Guide (May 26, 2016), but I wanted to share it here because we all need a good road trip.

Will Irma bring a second Hurricane of 1928 to Lake Okeechobee?

It woke up old Okeechobee and the monster began to roll in his bed. —Zora Neale Hurston

The monster is not Irma. The monster is Lake Okeechobee, and I don’t want or need to be right, but the more I watch the projected path of Irma the more I think about the cover story I wrote for Creative Loafing’s June 1 print issue: The Monster Next Time.

“The current condition of Herbert Hoover poses a grave and imminent danger… [The dike] needs to be fixed. We can only add that it needs to be fixed now, and it needs to be fixed right. We firmly believe that the region’s future depends on it.”

Lloyd’s of London risk assessment of Lake Okeechobee — not from 1928, but this millennium

Here’s Irma’s projected path:

Screen Shot20170907At6 59 12PM
via the National Hurricane Center/NOAA

And here’s the path the Hurricane of 1928 took:

Okee1928Map
via the National Hurricane Center/NOAA

With respect to Lake Okeechobee, they’re not that different, especially given the track error three days out. If anything, Irma poses more of a risk to Lake O. than the 1928 Hurricane did. 

“On the night of September 16, 1928, a hurricane that had swept across Puerto Rico hit south Florida, and the water dammed in Okeechobee had nowhere to go…That night, a mighty wave crashed through the 5-foot dike. More than a trillion gallons of water raced toward Belle Glade, Canal Point, Chosen, South Bay, Pahokee and a host of other poor black farming towns just south of Lake Okeechobee. Towns where everyday life involved snakes and mosquitoes and subpar living conditions before you add a hurricane into the equation. Towns where people had no way out. The wave covered those towns in 20 feet of water.”


Read my feature story on the 1928 Hurricane and how it could happen again this week.


Later, those same black people were buried in mass graves. No official count of the death toll exists. Few of the dead — black or white — received proper burials. Relief workers stacked bodies in piles and burned them, then buried the ashes in mass graves.

And now a disaster threatens to happen again.

And even if the storm enters from the south — as opposed to from the east — the danger remains: the Herbert Hoover Dike around Lake Okeechobee will not survive.

The same issues remain: government turning a blind eye to those living south of the lake who are imperiled if the dike fails. In all fairness, Governor Rick Scott did ask Trump for monies for repairing the dike, but the funds never made it into the budget. Still, such repairs should have been part of scheduled maintenance since, oh, the year after the dike was built.

The same demographic remains at risk: non-white people south of Okeechobee who don’t have a reliable way out.

The same risk remains: Cape Verde hurricanes.

“Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to learn from the experience of others, are also remarkable for their apparent disinclination to do so.” —Douglas Adams

This article originally appeared in Creative Loafing Tampa.

Hurricane ’17: The monster next time

When Lake Okeechobee levees broke during the Hurricane of 1928, thousands died. The “new” dike is now more than 80 years old — and in dire need of repair.

In 1928, black people were pretty much out of luck when it came to good jobs in Florida. They had, essentially, three choices: tapping pine trees for turpentine, working as servants to white folks, or farming the fields.

In addition to equality, Florida lacked a few other things — such as the inclination to do something when engineers raised the alarm that the mud levee around Lake Okeechobee was about to fail.

According to Eliot Kleinberg, author of Black Cloud: The Deadly Hurricane of 1928, government officials knew. They simply didn’t do anything about it.

“In 1926, a hurricane that smashed Miami washed out a portion of the dike and drowned hundreds. As in New Orleans, local politicians said the next time would be a catastrophe and a more solid barrier was needed. As in New Orleans, politicians were still talking about it when the next time came,” Kleinberg wrote the week after Katrina made landfall in New Orleans.

The predictions in 1926 of another disaster came true all too soon. On the night of September 16, 1928, a hurricane that had swept across Puerto Rico hit south Florida, and the water dammed in Okeechobee had nowhere to go.

Plans had been approved in the early 1920s to build a better dike. But the legislature never approved the money. After all, no one really lived down there, right? Just some black folks in Jim Crow Florida.

Survivors of 1928 Hurricane
A handwritten note on the back of this photo reads, “Colored girl sole survivor of family of seven.” viaLawrence E. Will Museum of the Glades

That night, a mighty wave crashed through the 5-foot dike. More than a trillion gallons of water raced toward Belle Glade, Canal Point, Chosen, South Bay, Pahokee and a host of other poor black farming towns just south of Lake Okeechobee. Towns where everyday life involved snakes and mosquitoes and subpar living conditions before you add a hurricane into the equation. Towns where people had no way out. The wave covered those towns in 20 feet of water.

Later, those same black people were buried in mass graves. No official count of the death toll exists. Few of the dead — black or white — received proper burials. Relief workers stacked bodies in piles and burned them, then buried the ashes in mass graves.

And it’s all ready to happen again.

The wall around Lake O creates a sense of foreboding. Perhaps it’s the water, the monster just out of sight, barely contained behind the dike; Zora Neale Hurston, in Their Eyes Were Watching God, says of the hurricane, “It woke up old Okeechobee and the monster began to roll in his bed.” Or perhaps it’s the surreal juxtaposition of poor migrant farm communities with ostentatious planters’ homes and the luscious fields of sugar cane that surround them.

Today, we call this the Everglades Agricultural Area, which produces an astounding amount of our country’s (heavily subsidized and wildly unhealthy) sugar, but the name doesn’t change the conditions. As it was 89 years ago, the EAA is peopled with minorities doing what they can to survive. In April, 1928, 500 people lived in Belle Glade (whose name means “belle of the swamp”); about 19,000 lived in Palm Beach County. The hurricane would kill almost 3,000 of those residents, or over 15 percent of the population. A report from the National Weather Service posits that 75 percent of those people were non-white migrant farm workers. Even those workers who had transport couldn’t escape the water that crashed over them.

Top:Damage And Flooding In Belle Glade Bottom:Smoke From Funeral Pyres
Top: Damage and flooding in Belle Glade. Bottom: Smoke from funeral pyres. via Lawrence E. Will Museum of the Glades

Lake Okeechobee is a 730-square-mile lake. Of all the freshwater lakes contained wholly within the United States borders, it is second only to Lake Superior in size. It’s about 30 miles wide by 33 miles across, which means you can fit the whole of Los Angeles inside the lake almost twice. Lake Okeechobee averages 9 feet deep, which means the state walled in 1.37 trillion gallons of water. That’s a lot — especially if you’re trying to outrun it when the levee breaks and there’s a storm raging all around you.

After the hurricane, newly elected President Herbert Hoover toured the area and vowed to build a better levee. He did, 143 miles in all, and that levee, made of dirt, has held.

Mostly.

The EAA (shown in green) comprises 700,000 acres planted mostly with sugarcane, which receives roughly $100 million in corporate welfare (also called subsidies or price supports) and does little to enhance the quality of life for the minorities working the fields.U.S. Geological Survey

The Herbert Hoover Dike is over 80 years old, and no one — not even the Army Corps of Engineers, infamous for making bad decisions about Florida’s environment (see: anything to do with the Kissimmee River and, well, all of the Everglades) — expects it to last much longer.

In 2006, the South Florida Water Management District commissioned an evaluation of the Herbert Hoover Dike. According to a Lloyd’s of London risk assessment of the lake, that report included a warning: “The current condition of Herbert Hoover poses a grave and imminent danger… [The dike] needs to be fixed. We can only add that it needs to be fixed now, and it needs to be fixed right. We firmly believe that the region’s future depends on it.”

Although work started to repair the dike in the early part of the millennium, the ACOE doesn’t expect to finish repairs until 2025 at the earliest.

Right now, the ACOE focuses on culvert repair. These 32 culverts around the lake are not the same sort of smallish culverts we see near our homes; the culverts leading water out from Lake O have a much larger capacity than the average storm drain.

The levee itself doesn’t actually hold water that well; it does keep it from overflowing, but the levee was built using what we now know to be outdated engineering methods — dredges that allow for water to escape through seepage, although not in waves. Picture a heavy canvas bag: You can fill it with water, but it will let some drops pass through. Now, picture that on a larger scale, and you have the current state of the Herbert Hoover Dike.

Florida State Archives

Aside from fixing the culverts, spillways — designed to take the overflow of water so it doesn’t go over the top of the levee — are damaged and eroded. None of this is news. It’s why, last year, water management officials discharged water from Lake O into the Caloosahatchee and St. Lucie rivers: It was that or risk killing people south of the lake. The water released, however, had so much fertilizer in it, it looked more like greenish coffee than water. That fertilizer comes from water pumped into the lake from communities along the lake’s south shore as well as farm and ranch runoff from points north. 

The ACOE says to finish repairs to the Herbert Hoover Dike by 2022 — instead of 2025 — will require $800 million in this fiscal year’s budget. Governor Rick Scott asked the legislature for $200 million; state lawmakers refused. Earlier this month, Senator Bill Nelson wrote a letter to President Trump and asked him to expedite repairs. 

“This is a critical public safety project, and I encourage you to direct the Army Corps to complete it as quickly as possible,” Nelson wrote. He asked for $200 million a year to shave those three years off the repairs, which include culvert and spillway repairs. 

Although President Donald Trump verbally promised Governor Rick Scott the remaining $600 million, President Trump’s budget slashed the ACOE budget by $1 billion, which could mean lawmakers in other states will push back against giving any of the remaining pot to accelerate the dike repairs. 

Additionally, Governor Scott seems to be under the impression the repairs will allow the lake to hold more water and prevent more discharges along the Caloosahatchee and St. Lucie Rivers, but both the ACOE and Audubon Florida say the repairs will not increase the capacity of the lake. 

No matter what the repairs do, they won’t do it until 2022 at the earliest. In the meantime, the people living south of the lake wait. And, when hurricanes come, these residents — 90 percent of whom are either black or Hispanic — hope for the best and fear the worst.

Welcome to Day One of the 2017 Atlantic hurricane season. 

If you go:

Lawrence E. Will Museum of the Glades

530 S. Main St., Belle Glade

Wed.-Sat.: 10 a.m.-4 p.m.; 561-853-4443. museumoftheglades.org

Hurricane Andrew: 25 Years Later

The Miami History Center, 101 W. Flagler St., Miami

Through Jan. 15, 2018: Tues.-Sat.: 10 a.m.-5 p.m.; Sun.: 12-5 p.m., Opening reception June 1: 6-9 p.m. $10; members, free. 305-375-1492. historymiami.org

The area damaged by the 1928 Hurricane were then and are now predominantly peopled by minorities. Florida State Archives

This article appeared as the cover story of the June 1 Creative Loafing issue. Read it there.